The Haggle Rewarded

Few encounters with my fellow man make fierce negotiation a truly pleasurable experience. This could not be less true in the spice bazaars of Istanbul, where that ancient Bosphorus ritual is cathartic conversation-ballet. After emotional purgation, it is right that the senses be rewarded exquisitely.

A Bosphorus bounty. Istanbul, December 2005.

Iranian fished Caspian Beluga purchased in Istanbul's Mısır Çarşısı, 31 December 2005. Two days later, the United Nations placed a year-long embargo on its export to guard against over-fishing.

Tea at a gorgeous madrasa that is now a hookah cafe. Istanbul, December 2005.

Warming coals at the madrasa-turned-cafe before they are placed on the tightly wrapped Egyptian tobacco. Istanbul, December 2005.


The craft of Turkish coal. Istanbul, December 2005.